I resisted but now I am coming around to the idea of making a marmalade. Part of the resistance was that I have not a speck of experience, first-hand or other, with making it, the way I do with preserves and jelly, and historically have not been a fan of eating it.
But in the middle of winter, thoughts do turn to citrus. It was last January I began to work on the Meyer lemon rosemary, and after a late start, this winter is topping last for epic cold and snow. Thinking about oranges takes the edge off. And something about their bitter citrusness, seems both a parallel and an opposite for the bitter winds blowing outside.
The word marmalade actually comes from the Portugese for—a not-easy-to-deal-with fruit I have already shown devotion to—quince! Marmelo in Portugese, and quince jam is marmelada. Originally, back in the 15th century or so, marmelade would have referred to a thick preserve or even paste of quinces. Eventually it came to refer to all fruit preserves; it’s only recently that marmalade has been designated as made from only citrus fruits.
My Mum loved marmalade and there was always a jar about for her toast, and I’m sure it was always on the breakfast table at Winwick, their house in Halifax. It is definitely an Anglo thing, though I suspect may be more Scots really and was just appropriated by the Brits along with so much else…
So I am trying my hand at it. This first batch, three days in the making, is delicious. But it is best described as a sauce. Chock full of Valencias along with the juice from lemons that steeped and were simmered with thyme, despite a very long low boil it just…never…set. Tasty though, for drizzling, glazing, or eating off the spoon.
Now I am turning my gaze to North Florida, where we actually have some family, and the possibility of getting Seville oranges before I try again. Seville are also known as sour oranges, not for eating as true to their name they are sour, sour, sour. But classic for true bitter marmalade, or Scots marmalade as we shall call it. Will be keepin’ ye posted.